Montreux, Switzerland – a Christmas fable in 3 parts

Tourism map of the Lake Geneva and Matterhorn Regions.

Please note: Photos and text © Gary Crallé 2008. All rights reserved.

To view the entire blog, click the bracketed number beside ‘2008’ on the right side of your screen and you are set to go! For my initial blog, click on ‘Older Posts’ at the bottom of this page, then ‘2007’.

All photos made with Olympus digital cameras and lenses: 10.2MP SLR E410 & E500 bodies, 11-22mm Zuiko lens, 14-54mm Zuiko lens, 50-200mm Zuiko lens, 1.4X Zuiko tele extender. This kit gave a 35mm film format equivalent of 22 to 560mm focal length coverage.

A unique aerial view of Chateau de Chillon, Montreux, as reflected in an ornamental ball decorating a Christmas tree within the courtyard.

Christmas in Switzerland can take you back in time. The Swiss have worked studiously to preserve their historical and natural environment for an excellent quality of life. The entire country is a cornucopia of recreation, food and drink. A trip by my wife and I to the Lake Geneva region (www.lake-geneva-region.ch) centered on Montreux, but the choices are many.

Part One: the Chateau

Our hotel offered romantic views of the chateau from the balcony. A misty day enhanced the effect very nicely.

Dancing bears on the walls greeted us in a small entrance room to the chateau.

The Prisoner of Chillon, a haunting poem by Lord Byron, made Francois Bonivard and the castle the most popular monument in Switzerland, according to the Michelin guidebook . For 4 years Bonivard was chained to a rock in the castle dungeon by the Duke of Savoy who objected to the Protestant views of the Prior.

This 15th century fireplace illuminates a corner of the Great Hall of the Bailiffs.
Examples of ironwork such as door keys can be found throughout the building.

Life in the Middle Ages was harsh, with survival a prime concern. Although spartan, the castle has some fine collections of decorative arts and furniture.

It would take a lot of decorations to mask the chilly chambers of the chateau; walls and floors are uncomfortably cold. Seasonal decorations are minimal and welcoming --- the way they used to be. There is even a Christmas tree in the courtyard!

Vineyards bearing the castle name can be found on the path to Montreux, a leisurely 25-minute walk along the lake

Parents and children were exploring every nook and cranny of the 9th century fortress over the holidays.

Views from the main tower.

A model within the castle gives a complete view of the structure, while a room above retains its delicate ceiling frescoes.

Switzerland is a masterfully layered infrastructure of housing, transportation, communications, industry and agriculture. The country is modern conveniences woven among historical structures, and the result is generally soothing to the eye. Here an ancient castle and string of communities known as Montreux sit placidly beneath an elevated expressway.

Santa must have a tough time getting down this chimney each year!

Part Two: our hotel + the town

Our home for 2 days was Le Grand Hôtel Excelsior (www.hotelexcelsiormontreux.com) on rue Bon Port, a 5 minute walk from town centre. The white pillared balconies of each guest room allowed a sweeping view of Lake Geneva: one more reason why it sometimes takes me 45 minutes to unpack my bag.

The Swiss are masters at understated elegance; our hotel lobby was a perfect example with its minimal yet calming decor. For all that, however, the view is why one stays at the Excelsior.

Our guide and host, Marc, from the local tourist office, met us in the lobby and quickly introduced us to Montreux via its modern music heritage. Down by the water a statue of former pop singer Freddy Mercurey belts out an eternal song with a characteristic gesture of exuberance.

In the casino is a collection of musical instruments from various jazz artists who have played the famous summer festival --- an original and still one of best in Europe.

The public promenade traverses a manicured garden beside the lake. At this time of year a row of market tents can blend inextricably into the landscape. Montreux is eminently walkable even in winter when Christmas decorations mingle with landmarks like this one to American jazz singer and pianist Ray Charles.

The Hotel Suisse Majestic (http://www.suise-majestic.com) on the main Avenue des Alpes drew us like moths to an elaborate candle as we entered a gilded ballroom to defrost ourselves. A large decorated tree was reflected in mirrors and a glistening black piano. Surprisingly, a teddy bear was the only guest we encountered, appearing transfixed with a view over the lake towards Mont Blanc.

Part Three: the Christmas Market

The Montreux Tourist Office immodestly describes its Christmas Market as the most beautiful in Switzerland. It is pretty, and earnestly maintained as a regional attraction of high quality even within the Swiss tradition of general excellence.
The market runs for a month, during which it attracts 350,000 visitors --- more than the summer jazz festival.

A large multi-angled open air market building was the centrepiece for this traditional celebration much loved by locals and visitors alike.

We had a late dinner amid the noise of Alpine horns, singing and loud conversations at wooden tables which filled a two-story replica of a country restaurant. The tantalizing aroma of meat and cheese from hearty Swiss cooking occupied whatever space remained. In a nearby windowed tent a separate atmospheric cubicle was occupied by more diners who waved and offered a toast to a photographer.