The public promenade traverses a manicured garden beside the lake. At this time of year a row of market tents can blend inextricably into the landscape. Montreux is eminently walkable even in winter when Christmas decorations mingle with landmarks like this one to American jazz singer and pianist Ray Charles.

The Hotel Suisse Majestic (http://www.suise-majestic.com) on the main Avenue des Alpes drew us like moths to an elaborate candle as we entered a gilded ballroom to defrost ourselves. A large decorated tree was reflected in mirrors and a glistening black piano. Surprisingly, a teddy bear was the only guest we encountered, appearing transfixed with a view over the lake towards Mont Blanc.

Part Three: the Christmas Market

The Montreux Tourist Office immodestly describes its Christmas Market as the most beautiful in Switzerland. It is pretty, and earnestly maintained as a regional attraction of high quality even within the Swiss tradition of general excellence.
The market runs for a month, during which it attracts 350,000 visitors --- more than the summer jazz festival.

A large multi-angled open air market building was the centrepiece for this traditional celebration much loved by locals and visitors alike.

We had a late dinner amid the noise of Alpine horns, singing and loud conversations at wooden tables which filled a two-story replica of a country restaurant. The tantalizing aroma of meat and cheese from hearty Swiss cooking occupied whatever space remained. In a nearby windowed tent a separate atmospheric cubicle was occupied by more diners who waved and offered a toast to a photographer.

After dinner, we strolled by craft booths lining the lakeshore promenade. Most families had left for home; it was a time for adults to relax and reminisce with friends over glasses of steaming mulled wine. What a surprise seeing one of the vendors sporting a Montréal Canadiens hockey jersey!

The casino was its Cinderella alter ego at night. The tranquil daytime persona was lit up, well, like a Christmas tree as it enjoined the seasonal celebrations.